Log Cabin Flooring - Bamboo

If you’re concerned about the environment, you should be aware that bamboo is a renewable ‘green’ source of flooring for your log cabin construction. China, Indonesia, Viet Nam, the Philippines and Korea are the major sources of bamboo. As an environmental aside, pandas don’t eat the species of bamboo used for commercial products.

Solid hardwood is commonly used for log cabin floors. While a hardwood tree may take 100 years or more to mature and is destroyed when cut down for flooring, a bamboo plant remains alive and requires around 6 years to re-grow to a harvestable length. Bamboo actually grows one to three feet a day during its peak growth period. Even though it is officially categorized as a grass, bamboo exceeds a number of hardwoods in ‘hardness.’

Bamboo plants stalks are cut down and the outer green layer and shoots are removed. The remainder is boiled and ‘purified.’ Its natural color is light blond. The bamboo may also be pressure steamed to produce a darker ‘carbonized’ color that accentuates the grain pattern. However, this carbonization process reduces the hardness of the bamboo about 10%.

The bamboo logs are then sorted into ‘A’ and ‘B’ grades. Strips of similarly graded bamboo are first placed together either vertically or horizontally. Then they are glued together and high pressure is applied to form ‘blocks’. The blocks are then milled to form the final flooring planks.

Besides the natural blond and darker carbonized colors, the natural planks can be stained to produce a variety of other colors. You can choose the best color to complement your log cabin walls. Like hardwood boards, bamboo flooring is available in unfinished or finished options.

The Janka Hardness ratings for bamboo are 1380 for natural bamboo and 1180 for carbonized bamboo. The rating of natural bamboo is actually higher than red (1290) and white (1360) oak.

Bamboo flooring is typically tongue and groove manufactured. It can be nailed or glued to a subfloor. A floating option is also available to do it yourself handymen. It can be installed over concrete with a vapor barrier for a floating floor. There are also moisture barrier adhesives available for glueing down the bamboo flooring.

Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of bamboo flooring is the cost. It can be up to 50% lower that solid hardwood floors. I will certainly be investigating bamboo flooring when I make a choice for my log cabin construction.

Log Cabin Flooring - Solid Hardwood

Your log cabin is made from solid wood logs. Solid hardwood flooring complements and adds to the traditional look of your log cabin log walls. As the name suggests, the flooring is cut from a solid piece of log.

The harder the wood, the longer lasting and less susceptible to wear and ‘dinging’ it is. There is a hardness index (Janka Hardness Scale) that measures the relative hardness of different wood species. The chart below shows this rating for various popular flooring choices.

White Ash            1320
American Beech  1300
Paper Birch           910
Black Cherry         950
Cypress               1375
Douglas Fir           660
Hickory               1820
Hard Maple         1450
Red Oak              1290
White Oak           1360
Brazilian Cherry 2350

Hardwoods can be laid down in several styles. Most commonly, they are laid out in linear strips that are 2 ¼” or 3 ¼’ wide. Planks are wider pieces than are also linear but up to widths of 4” and higher. The narrower width strips provide a more formal look while the wider widths are more country looking and log cabin oriented. Finally, hardwood can be put down in a parquet style in which the pieces of wood form a repeated geometric design. The hardwood boards are manufactured in lengths between 1’-7’. The boards are ¾” deep.

Solid wood flooring is available in either unfinished or prefinished versions. Unfinished wood must be sanded and covered with several coats of finish after being installed. The finishing process takes several days to a week to complete. Prefinished hardwood has already been factory finished and is ready for use immediately after installation.

Solid hardwood flooring is sensitive to moisture. It is not recommended for placement over concrete, below ground level or over radiant heated floors. You can sand and refinish it up to seven times during its 80 to 100 year lifetime.

Hardwood flooring pieces are given a grade based on their appearance. Higher graded pieces have better uniformity of appearance. The grades in order of quality are:

Clear grade – has most uniform color, lack of blemishes and knots
Select & Better – has very uniform color, virtually no blemishes or knots
Country or Exclusive – differing color, small pinholes and tiny knots
Traditional, Antique, Character – light and dark color, pinholes, knots and small checks
Tavern or Cabin – light and dark color, pinholes and knots are quite evident

It sounds like from the grades that log cabins should automatically fall into the bottom grade ranking. To be honest with you, I agree. I won’t mind seeing knots and checks on my log cabin walls nor on my floors.

Log Cabin Flooring - Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is another option for your log cabin construction. A laminate is a material that is manufactured by joining two or more layers of material together. The layers are combined with adhesive and heat and/or pressure. Laminate flooring was originally designed by a Swedish company named Pergo. It was introduced to the USA by Pergo in 1994. It is now the fastest growing flooring choice in America


Laminate flooring is made of four layers. The top or wear layer is typically made from cellulose paper that is soaked with melamine plastic resins. This produces laminate flooring’s durability and scratch resistance. The second or design layer provides the image that shows through the wear layer. It is made from cellulose paper that has a photograph or a print copied on it. The image simulates the look of wood, tiles or stone.

The third or core layer is made from a type of particle board and provides the bulk of the floor. The final or stabilizer layer is usually made the same as the top layer. The identical top and bottom layers help to prevent movement within the core layer.

Ease of installation is a major benefit of laminates. Like engineered wood, laminated flooring can be installed over your log cabin's plain or radiant heated concrete. Most laminate planks are made with tongue and grooved sides that allow them to be ‘clicked’ together. A foam or board underlay is applied to the application surface. A vapor barrier combination underlay product should be used over concrete. They are commonly installed as floating floors.

Laminated flooring is water resistant and therefore a good choice for your log cabin bathrooms, kitchen and laundry room where moisture is a potential problem. It is also durable and suited for high traffic areas.

The final benefit of laminated flooring is cost. It averages 20-25% lower than solid wood. If you install the laminate flooring yourself, your savings will be more.

Log Cabin Flooring - Engineered Wood

If you’ve decided to install wood flooring in your log cabin, you should consider engineered wood as an option. Although the word ‘engineered’ sounds somewhat less than real, engineered wood flooring is indeed constructed from all wood components. It has become increasingly popular as worldwide sales of engineered wood has eclipsed solid wood flooring sales.


Engineered wood consists of a 1/16” to 1/8” top layer of finish wood on top of layers of non-finish plywood. For additional strength, the grain of the plywood layers runs crossways to each other and the finish layer. This makes the flooring more stable and less susceptible to warping. Unlike solid wood, engineered planks can be glued to a concrete subfloor, installed over a radiant heat floor or installed as a floating floor. The plywood base withstands moisture that can cause buckling and rippling. I will definitely use it to cover my log cabin basement floor. The top layer is also pre-finished so that it is ready for use upon being laid.

Since the top layer is real wood, engineered flooring is available in the same species as solid hardwood floors including hickory, oak, maple and walnut. There also a ‘green’ option, bamboo. Bamboo has a distinctive grain and is technically a grass. The bamboo plant is not destroyed when it is harvested and unlike trees, it is a renewable resource.

Engineered wood can be placed in areas with light moisture. I have engineered wood installed in my first floor half bath and despite occasional water spills, it has held up well. Although I have seen it installed in the kitchen and full bathrooms of log cabins, I personally prefer the look and better water resistance of tile.

Having experienced engineered flooring in my current residence, I can attest that it is susceptible to scratching and ‘dinging.’ Unlike laminate flooring, it can be sanded to renew the surface. However, depending on the thickness of the finish layer, it can only be sanded one to three times. It is advisable to hire a floor professional specialist to do the sanding due to the limited depth of the top layer.

The cost of engineered wood is comparable to solid wood. However, if you glue down or use floating floor option, you can save money by installing it yourself. I will probably put down my own basement floor.

Artificial Stone for your Log Cabin Fireplace

Like most log cabin owners, I will be installing a fireplace in my cabin. Although the Georgia Blue Ridge Mountains have winters much milder than what we experienced when we lived in New England, I am looking forward to firing up those wood logs on a snowy day. We currently have a natural gas fireplace in our townhouse near Atlanta. We use it occasionally but miss the wood smell and natural flames of a wood fireplace.

After some research, we have decided to install a stone fireplace. We feel that the stone will stand out and provide an attractive contrast in our log cabin great room. There are a number of stone choices available. Natural stone is available in a full veneer which is three to five inches thick and a thin veneer which is a lighter weight version and about an inch thick.

Besides real stone, you also have the artificial or manufactured stone option. Artificial stone is made from concrete or cement and aggregates that are poured into special detailed molds. Special pigments are added to produce long lasting colors. Surface coloration is achieved by applying pigments to the surface of the mold. There are different styles available that mimic a variety of natural rocks. They look like the real thing.

A major advantage of the artificial stone is weight and the resulting easier installation. Artificial stone can be one third to one sixth of the weight of real stone. Artificial stone faced fireplaces do not require full masonry foundations to support them in you log cabin. Installing the lighter ‘stones’ saves time and cost. They can be installed by the weekend handyman following simple instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Manufacturers will provide warranties up to 50 years on their manufactured stones. They are non combustible. They are typically cheaper than real stone. Given the real look and other advantages, I will be using artificial stone for my log cabin fireplace.

Hiring an Architect for your Log Cabin Design

Log cabin manufacturers will provide you with a number of standard designs in different sizes and styles. If you like a general design but want to make some changes, the manufacturer typically has a designer or design staff that can make modify one of their plans to accommodate you. Or, if you want a custom designed log cabin, then you will probably consider hiring an architect.

An architect provides several advantages over a manufacturer designer. You will normally be able to meet with the architect and express your ideas face to face and be more assured he understands what you want. He will be able to show you various options for your consideration. You are also likely to get more attention. Talking to a designer over the phone is just not as conducive to ending up with exactly what you want.

If you decide to go the architect route, make sure you find one with log cabin experience. Log cabins are different. They have a much greater variety of design options such as stairs, railings, log intersections, great rooms, etc. Also, be sure you are prepared to lay out your new home goals. The architect will help you convert those goals onto a blueprint.

Meet with several architects and determine if you have a good chemistry. Keep in mind that you will work closely with the architect throughout your cabin building process. Get references and talk to his log cabin design customers. You can also ask for his contractor recommendations. Get estimates. The estimate should include the design, guiding the project through the approval process and making sure that the construction follows the plans.

What do architects charge? Just like your log cabin design, there are options. Hourly rates will vary from $50 to $150. The hourly rate may vary based on the type of work. Their fee can be a percentage of the construction cost generally ranging from 5 to 15 percent. The fee may be based on the square footage of the log home. Out of pocket expenses may also be charged on top of the fee.

Upon selecting an architect, you will need a written contract that specifies the fee, a payment schedule for the fee, what work is to be done, the work schedule and a construction budget.

Log Cabin Interior Walls

The outside of a log cabin should maximize the rustic beauty of logs as much as possible. While you can use log siding to simulate the appearance of full logs and save money, I will be constructing my cabin with full logs. Having chosen full log construction, I will have by default, interior log walls as well. I will use “D” logs which will have a rounded outside surface while the interior surface will be flat.

My log cabin will be designed to maximize the visibility of these full logs on the inside. That means I don’t want them hidden in infrequently used rooms such as enclosed closets that can be moved to the interior.

I have seen a number of pictures of log cabin interiors that are all wood. That means wood floors, wood walls and wood ceilings. I read one article that stated ‘wood paneling is perfect for log cabin interiors because it is ‘over the top’.’ If you like ‘over the top’, then maximizing wood is quite doable.

There are several options for wood interior walls. You can go so far as building a ‘stacked’ log cabin in which all first floor walls, including inside, are constructed with full logs. More commonly, interior walls will be built with traditional wood studs but the outer wall is covered by log siding or wood paneling. Log siding will be rounded and provide a more rustic look while paneling will be flat.

I definitely do not have an ‘over the top’ inclination. I don't like the all wood look and prefer the contrast of different surfaces. I expect that all my interior walls will be traditional wood framed with wallboard but each type of room will be covered with a different wall treatment. While I may choose wood paneling for a particular room, it’s only one option of many.

Interior walls can be built with wallboard that is painted or stuccoed. I’ve also seen a log cabin model with wallboard covered with what looked like a tan colored compound mixture. The wall surface looked textured and I found it quite attractive as well as unusual. You can also cover wallboard with stone or tile. There is also my least favorite covering, wallpaper.

You are not restricted to one type of wall covering in a particular room. I’ve seen a mix of wood paneling, tile on the lower portion of a wall and painted wallboard in the same room that was unique. The point is that there’s more than just wood to a log cabin. Consider the alternatives

Your Log Cabin Budget

What will your log cabin cost? That depends on a lot of things. You control most, if not all of the cost factors. The first step is to set a firm budget. Then, you probably need to make comprises as needed to stay within that budget.

I remember touring a log home that happened to be my preferred model, a three bedroom, two and a half bath with great room and a finished basement. The sales representative of the manufacturer, who was also a builder, eventually confided to me that a standard equipped home of that model would probably cost around $400,000. I believe that he was being entirely honest and I have also to confess that the number was a tad more than I expected.

He also stated that the particular house we were touring cost around $500,000 due to upgraded cabinets, countertops, fixtures, etc. That’s a 25% premium! Wow! (I don’t know about you but I’m not all that excited about fixtures.) Keep in mind that only about 20% of a log home cost comes from the logs.

Based on this experience and further research, I would recommend the following log home cost management approaches.

Determine your base log cabin design. As the result of reviewing many plans and visiting a number of log cabin models, I have a pretty good idea of what I would like. I’m not sure that I will be able to afford it but that’s OK. I’m going to have two to three log cabin manufacturers provide me plans (based on my input) and an estimated cost. I will also get quotes from at least three builders with log cabin experience (after reference research) to complete the construction.

If the numbers add up too high, I will start cutting back on features that I would like but don’t need. There are add-ons that I’ve seen on a model that I could live without. Maybe that roof won’t cover the porch. Maybe the roof won’t extend over the great room windows. Maybe I won’t be using Brazilian hard wood for my porches. If necessary, the basement won’t be finished. I will also expect the vendors to tighten their belts as well.

As a guide, I have seen a turnkey cost projection of $140-150 per square foot which excludes a driveway, septic and well. A minimum budget should not dip below $130.

Log Cabin Siding

I struggled a bit before choosing the title for this article. A log cabin is made from logs. What does siding have to do with a log cabin? Well, having bought land on a mountain ridge, I knew that a basement would be needed to accommodate the land slope. The back end of the log cabin basement would have a pair of sliding glass doors but still lots of exposed concrete. The log cabin pictured above provides an approximation of what the rear of my cabin will look like. The outer basement walls in the picture are covered with stone which is certainly one option. I, however, would prefer the consistency of wood. I will use log siding.

I’ve also discovered another application that I intend to pursue. Like the pictured cabin, mine will have two dormered windows in back but also two more in front. I see no need to construct those dormers with full logs. They will be wood framed and log sided.

I uncovered a number of options while researching siding for my log cabin. Although I’m interested only in real wood, I mention these other options for informational purposes and possible further research. The first three are vinyl, metal and concrete. I have only seen pictures of them but they are supposed to resemble real logs. Ease of maintenance and durability are their primary benefit.

I’ve also discovered what is called e-log siding. These ‘logs’ are composed of expanded polystyrene with a base of oriented strand board and an outside surface of laminated fiberboard and a thick wood veneer. The e-logs come in 8 foot lengths and diameters of 12, 14 or 16 inches. The e-log does require ongoing cleaning and restaining.

Real wood log siding is made pretty much the same as the full logs. The options are hand crafted or milled. After being trimmed, the log is cut lengthwise to 1 ½” thickness for quarter log and 2 ½” half log sizes. The half log has a more rounded and full log appearance. A tongue and groove end match design makes for a relatively easy installation. You can also buy ‘false corners’ such as but and pass to match the full log corners of your log cabin. Real wood siding does require maintenance similar to a full log.

Both the real log and e-log siding can be installed on interior walls as well. Siding is definitely cheaper and easier to install than full logs. It’s your log cabin. The choice is yours.

Log Cabin Lighting

Designing a lighting strategy for a log cabin is different than for a traditional house. I’m not referring to developing an even more rustic look with the use of fixtures featuring antlers and images of deer and moose. I’m focusing on the special lighting characteristics of a wood interior. The exposed log walls and wood paneled walls and ceilings of log cabins tend to absorb light rather than reflect it. Cabins with open great rooms require more auxiliary lighting for proper illumination. Using the right kind of lighting enhances the beauty and warmth of the wood interior.


There are several types of lighting to consider including:

Natural – You manage daylight through optimized placement and size of windows and skylights. In warm climates, sunlight can overheat a log cabin through windows on the south and west facing sides. Roof overhangs can provide shade as well as protect the wood. Of course, the amount of heat and daylight can also be reduced with curtains or blinds. I plan to maximize the views and natural light of the great room in my log cabin through large picture windows. I haven’t decided yet whether to extend the roof over these windows. Tubular skylights also spreads natural light while minimizing the extent of roof penetration.

Ambient - Ambient lighting provides the general diffused illumination that lights a house. It sets the overall tone and mood of a room. Ambient light sources include chandeliers, flush recessed lights and ceiling mounted pendant lamps. Recessed lighting provides a high level of light without unsightly fixtures. Our kitchen has a series of recessed ceiling lights that are virtually out of sight yet totally illuminate the room.

Accent - Accent lights are directional, they provide contrast and illuminate special features in a room such as artwork and special log cabin architectural features. Uplights, which as the name suggests direct their light upward, can highlight, for example, wooden trusses. We have a light inside a glass and mirrored dining room cabinet that directs attention to our beautiful china and glassware.

Task – Task lighting is especially important in a log cabin. Rather than providing a focus on objects, task lighting sheds light on a specific area to assist the completion of visual tasks. Under cabinet lights can be out of sight but provide extra light on a countertop or work station. A table or standing lamp can be used to provide reading light

Handcrafted Log Homes

You have two choices when deciding on the type of log cabin you build. If you are a purist or just love a totally rustic log cabin appearance, then using handcrafted logs is the way to go. However, appreciate that due to the manual labor involved, the handcrafted method comes at a higher cost than milling. I have decided to use milled logs for my cabin, preferring their uniform look and tight fit. I made my decision after studying all log cabin options.


As the name suggests, handcrafted logs are hewn or peeled by hand. Milled logs are both shaped and connections produced by machine. The most common handcrafted wood types are Douglas Fir, Pine or Spruce. Typically, the logs are larger than ones used in the milling process. Milled logs are usually cut to between six and eight inches in diameter while handcrafted will range between twelve to twenty inches and average around fifteen. The handcrafted logs will have different diameters while milled logs will be uniform.

                                                                   Handcrafted Logs

How are handcrafted logs fit together? Some log cabins are built purposely with space between the logs. The space is filled with chinking, a mortal like substance. A second option is to make a simple straight cut across the top and bottom of each log. When stacked, they will still leave gaps. The gaps must be caulked or chinked. A third method is to scribe each log to fit the top surface of the log beneath, making the log connections more weather tight. A high degree of craftsmanship is required to accomplish this.

A timber roof system can also be made from hand peeled logs. The logs are scribed, fitted and cut to match the desired roof pitch. The roof can be structured with scissor trusses, ridge beam and purloins or log truss with rafters.

                                                                    Log Trusses


Maintenance of handcrafted logs is the same as the milled logs. The wood needs to be sealed on an ongoing basis.



Settling is always a concern with log cabins. Know how your handcrafter compensates for it. As I have emphasized before, research is key to achieving your dream home. If you can, find several handcrafters that have log cabins in your area and analyze their results. Find out what other local customers have experienced in terms of settling, drafts and leaks. There is no substitute for experience. I wouldn’t dare select someone until I had seen his work. Take advantage of those who have gone before you.

Log Cabin Logs - Shapes, Connections and Corners

Logs for a log cabin can be milled or handcrafted. Hand crafted logs are unique and vary in size. Due to their hand crafting, they are more expensive but produce a more natural look. There are also half logs which are used to surface a conventional structure but still yield a log cabin look. This article will address the milled full log option. The wood is machined to a uniform size and shape. There are several log profiles available including:

Square/Rectangular The wood is milled with 4 straight edges. One edge may be beveled.

Round The wood is milled round. Round logs may be coped (Swedish cope), i. e., a half moon groove is cut on the bottom to allow them to fit one on top of another.

D shaped The log is milled with flat top and bottom and with at least one round side. The second side may either be round or flat. My preference is the flat and round D shaped log: round on the outside and flat on the inside.

Log Interface

How are logs fitted together to construct the log cabin? Milled flat surfaces fit on top of each other but how is the connection kept solid and air tight? A common connection is the tongue and groove. These can be single or multiple. Tongues are milled on the top of the log and the interlocking groves are on the bottom.

A sealer will be applied to the tongue and groove joints. Another method is to mill a groove on both sides of the log and connect the logs with a wood spline fitting into the grooves. Lag bolts may also be used to secure the logs together.

Corners
There are also a number of different corner connection options for a log cabin.

Dovetail Used with square/rectangular logs, the corner is cut in a fan shaped wedge that interlocks with the perpendicular connecting logs.

Butt One log fits into a cutout of the connecting log

Butt and Pass One log is cutout to snugly fit the outside of the intersecting log.

Saddlenotch Notches in the shape of a saddle are cut on top and bottom of logs. These notches intersect and logs overlap the connecting logs

Corner Post The wall logs are toe-nailed onto a vertical corner post which is commonly bigger than the wall logs. There are no extended log ends.

If there are extended log ends, they can be straight, staggered or curved

Wood Gutters for Your Log Cabin

Generally, wood gutters are used to replace old gutters when restoring older homes or in custom building. I consider my log cabin to be a custom home and will consider the installation of wood gutters.

Wood gutters are the most costly option and are made from three types of wood: redwood, cedar and fir. With proper maintenance, redwood gutters can last up to 100 years. Wood gutters are usually 4 x 6 inches in width and height and are sold in 10 and 20 foot lengths. Redwood gutters cost between $16 and $18 per linear foot while fir, the cheapest, will be around $10. Copper, black iron or PVC are commonly used as material for leaders. If desired, the leaders can be boxed in with wood. I have also seen an article espousing rain chains which originated in Japan and are essentially a series of funnels directing the water downward.

Wood gutters are connected by way of a scarfed joint. The ends of the two pieces are cut at the same angle which maximizes the area of connection. The inside ends of the connecting lengths are beveled and the joint is filled with a high quality sealant. The gutters are simply nailed to the facia with galvanized-headed nails through pre-drilled holes. The recommended pitch is ½ inch for every 20 feet.

Downspouts are installed by drilling holes in the gutter that are 1/16 inch smaller than the downspout nipple. The nipple, 3 inches long by 1 3/8 inches in diameter is screwed into the gutter. The nipple will fit into a 1 ½ inch downspout.

Maintenance of wood gutters includes ongoing cleaning and applications of wood protection treatments. Cleaning should be done at least once a year. A spring and fall regimen is recommended. One key to preventing wood rot is to keep the wood dry.
Remove all debris that will retain moisture, e.g., leaves and the pebbles from composition shingles.

The outside of the gutter will be treated just like any other of your log cabin decorative trim using, for example, a stain/sealant. The inside of the gutter should be treated with a non drying oil such as shingle oil. Don’t use a material that will seal moisture in the gutter. If any wood has rotted, remove only the portion that has rotted using a hand planer or rasper.

Despite the higher cost of wood gutters, they are compatible with my vision of a custom built log cabin. The additional maintenance will be a pleasure.

Radiant Floor Heat for your Log Cabin

I will be building a basement as part of my log cabin construction. Since the basement will be finished at some point, I needed to decide on a heating system. One alternative that I researched was radiant floor heating. I learned that installation of radiant tubing within a concrete floor was the easiest, most cost effective and highest performance applications of radiant heat. Since the rest of the heating system can be installed at a later date, I concluded that it was the ideal choice for my situation.

What exactly is radiant heat? Why is it used? It is a very efficient heat distribution system that uses the entire floor to provide warmth to the room(s). It’s possible to set the room temperature several degrees lower than a forced air system and achieve the same comfort level. The most popular and less expensive residential system is hydronics, i.e., running hot water through flexible plastic tubing within the concrete floor. This system maintains a very comfortable warm feet and cool head environment. There are no vents as used in a less efficient forced air system.

The tubing is laid down in a serpentine fashion on top of the concrete wire mesh and insulation. The concrete is poured encapsulating the tubing. The two ends of the tubing stick out of the concrete (hot water in and cool water out.) The system is pressure tested before being connected to the water heating system. A floor sensor thermistor is used to monitor the temperature of the floor. A zoned system with multiple temperature monitors and tubing loops can be installed.

The cost of a hydronic system is approximately $4 - $6 per square foot. Installation does require an experienced specialist.

Almost any floor covering can be used over the concrete. The most common is ceramic tile. Vinyl and linoleum sheets, carpeting and wood can be applied. Laminated wood is better suited for radial heat than solid wood which is susceptible to shrinking and cracking. Of course, anything that insulates the floor will reduce the heat release and the efficiency of the system. A covered floor will require a higher temperature setting.

Although my plan is to install a radiant system in just the basement of my log cabin, it can also be installed upstairs with the tubing running between the joists and beneath the subfloor in what is called a dry installation. Wet or dry, it merits your consideration.

Building a Log Cabin Basement

Including a basement in plans for our log cabin was a foregone conclusion. The slope of our property, on the side of a mountain ridge, made a basement necessary. Nonetheless, we would have considered a basement as a relatively cheap way to provide additional space. We plan on a couple of bedrooms, a bathroom and playroom for the grandchildren as well as storage and the utility room.

Dampness and darkness are the two major drawbacks of a basement. The dampness is primarily due to the coolness of the basement. Good insulation is a key to a warmer basement.

Our log cabin property slope will allow us to have a walkout basement with sliding glass doors and windows on the back end. A four foot slope is sufficient for windows and eight feet will work for a walkout setup. Windows and doors will provide a source of natural ventilation and light. They also reduce any potential exposure to radon. Having them face south, if practical, also improves the natural warmth.

If possible, plan on ten foot ceilings. A higher ceiling allows for ductwork for HVAC and a less confined atmosphere. There is additional cost but the tradeoff is more than worth it. Although it is optimal to finish the basement up front, you may be facing financial constraints that currently limit your options. You can always finish off the basement in the future but you need to plan ahead. It is crucial to include plumbing lines and drains for bathrooms etc. up front.

There are several options for type of basement construction. The floor base will be poured concrete. If you are not finishing the floor, a layer of rigid insulation and radiant barrier are recommended. Alternatively, stone, tile, carpet, vinyl and wood flooring can be applied. Wood flooring should be raised off the floor.

There are a number of walls construction options.

Concrete blocks – The advantage is the price as it is cheapest option. Hollow blocks will not provide anywhere near as good a support as solid. They are also susceptible to leakage.

Poured concrete – It has no seams that promote leaks and stronger than blocks. Should be sealed on outside. However, walls can develop settlement and shrinkage cracks.

Precast concrete walls – Concrete walls can be made offsite, cured and then transported to construction site.

Insulated concrete forms (ICF) – Hollow foam forms are fitted together and filled with poured concrete. ICF is more expensive than poured concrete. Foam provides moisture block and energy efficiency as foam also blocks heat escape.

Metal Roof on a Log Cabin

I’ve got to admit that I hadn’t seen (or didn’t know that I had seen) a metal roof on a house until I visited the land development where my wife and I bought our retirement property. A couple of the homes already built there were log cabins, both with green vertical panel metal roofs. I have to admit as well that the roofs aroused my curiosity since it was my intention to build a log cabin. They were definitely eye catching. My home ownership experience had included only asphalt shingles so it was time to do a little research.

I learned that, as usual, there was a price/benefit trade off between composition shingles made of fiberglass, asphalt and crushed rock and metal shingles. In addition to the cost of the metal, a breathable underlayment should be applied to the roofing deck to prevent moisture from accumulating under the metal. Metal roofs are definitely more expensive but provide the following benefits.

Longevity – Metal resists cracking, shrinking, erosion and exposure to weather extremes. Primer and finish paint are baked onto metal. While the composition shingle roof may last 15-30 years, metal roof warranties will cover up to 50 years with a longer true expected life. My experience (in the Northeast) with asphalt shingles has been 20 years at best.

Fireproof – Metal roofing is non combustable. \
Energy Efficient – Metal reflects sunlight rejecting 80-90 percent of the heat.
Sheds Snow and Ice

Metal options include steel, stainless steel, copper, zinc titanium. High performance coating options are polyesters, silicone modified polyesters and Kynar, a polyvinylidene floride.

Metal roofs also are manufactured in a number of different styles. While I saw only the vertical panel style, metal is available in the following forms.

Shingle slate – Resembles asphalt roofing
Tile – Resembles clay, ceramic or concrete tile
Shake – resembles wood shakes
Vertical panel - easy to fabricate on the job site, have interlocking seams

Don’t forget that the quality of your roof depends on the quality of instalation. Make sure you're installer has done plenty of metal roofs. Check for satisfied customers. Don't choose the right roof but the wrong contractor.

Having seen only one metal roof style, I will be searching for homes with the other styles before choosing one for pricing. Then I will be doing a cost/benefit analysis before deciding between metal and asphalt for my log cabin. My wife and I both have life expectancies that are definitely much shorter than that of a new metal roof. Will my children want to keep the cabin after we’re gone? Our research will continue.